This type of dyeing technique using the liquid dye made from the bark and roots of the plum (Japanese apricot) tree became popular from the early Muromachi period (1333~1573) until the Edo period (1603~1868). The roots were finely broken down and boiled so that the liquid dye extracted from this was then applied repeatedly onto the fabric and the color fixed using acetic acid and iron. The reddish yellow-brown class of umezome dye was extremely popular.
The umezome dyeing technique was also used to bring out a blackish tinge in the fabric and this method was referred to as kuro-umezome, or black plum dyeing.
As opposed to the indigo dyeing which was the standard practice throughout Japan, the black plum dyeing method for dyeing silk displayed beautiful subtle hues and a gentle texture, and came into use as gifts to the central government. This method of plain dyeing hence came to be known as Kaga dyeing or Okunizome.
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| Plum tree |
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| Bark・core |
Liquid dye |
Plum dyeing in action |
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